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Northern Renaissance

A visit to Jacobs Field, Cleveland, May 2002

For a whole generation of Cleveland fans, baseball was all pain, no gain. Not only were the Indians Jacobs Field Logoperennial losers, but fans had to watch them in the punishing confines of Municipal Stadium.

Enter Richard Jacobs. As the Indians' CEO, he came up with a winning strategy and executed it to near-perfection. Jacobs persuaded local officials to share the cost of new park; and, when the deal was done, assembled a talented young club and a solid minor-league system. The result: six postseason appearances and two American League pennants, a run most rivals can only dream of.

The Indians were big winners at the gate, too, selling out 455 consecutive games, a record that won't fall anytime soon. During that time, tickets disappeared before Opening Day, which meant out-of-town fans had to take their chances with scalpers. But after an out-of-the-money finish in 2000, baseball fever has cooled a bit. Nowadays, you can walk up to the window on game day and usually get seats.

Even though Jacobs Field is on the edge of downtown, getting in and out is a snap; I ran into no tie-ups driving into the city, and just a bit of congestion after the game. There's also plenty of parking in the vicinity; a spot four blocks from the park cost me $5. My only problem was navigating Cleveland's streets: most are one-way, and turns are prohibited almost everywhere.

Walking around the exterior, I was struck by how compact Jacobs Field was. While the park has a capacity of 43,368, it looks cozier, both outside and inside, because it was built in the shape of a box, not a saucer. Opened in 1994, it's one of the oldest "retro" parks, with irregular dimensions, off-white paint and brown sandstone, and, of course, green seats.

Outside, there's not much to see, aside from the "Jacobs Field" logo behind home plate; a statue of Bob Feller at "Indians Square"; and Gund Arena, the home of the Cavaliers, next door. There was little pregame partying either: no tailgaters in the parking lots, and just a handful of bars close to the park.

View From BleachersJacobs Field's "game day staff" are among the nicest in the majors. At the gates, security was efficient but not overbearing--remarkable for a weekend better suited for Browns football, with fans wearing heavy coats and carrying blankets. Ticket takers, ushers, and concession stand workers all went out of their way to help.

Years of sellouts have had a predictable effect on ticket prices. Infield box seats, which all but put you in the lineup, carry a $40 price tag. Boxes between the infield and the foul pole cost $25, but the farther away you sit, the more you'll have to contort yourself to see home plate. If you're sitting in the back rows on the first-base side, there's an added problem: the overhang from the club seats.

Upstairs, what are called "reserved seats" elsewhere are "box seats" here. And they're priced accordingly--at least five dollars more than at other parks. Twelve dollars gets you a seat near the foul pole, where you'll have to sit at an uncomfortable angle; the $7 seats overlooking right field are a better value. Aside from the Pepsi Home Run Porch beyond left field, there's little standing room.

In other parks, the cheapest seats are in the bleachers. But not at Jacobs Field, where the going price is $17. But Indians fans swear by these seats; at least half a dozen called them "the best seats in the house." They're so popular, you have to show a ticket to enter the bleacher section. Sitting on top of left-center field, I had a good view of the game, surrounded by knowledgeable and hard-core--but courteous--fans. In the last row of the bleachers, you'll find one of baseball's legendary fans: John Adams, who for years has been banging a big drum to rally the Tribe.

Jacobs Field ScoreboardAmerica's largest freestanding scoreboard is behind left-center field, framed by Cleveland's skyline. One of its three working boards is an animation matrix used for announcements, stats, and trivia. Another is a Sony JumboTron that shows replays and highlights. Between them is the game-in-progress board, featuring the batting orders, line score, and other essentials. The boards do only a workmanlike job; they show too many commercials and not enough replays, and are slow to update out-of-town scores.

Although Jacobs Field is on the small side, a lot of amenities have been crammed inside. Family-oriented Tribe fans love to picnic, and there are plenty of places to choose from. The Ford Picnic Pavilion is beyond center field, underneath the biggest American flag I've seen at a ballpark; there are also two smaller areas downstairs, as well as rows of tables along the upper concourse. The park's nooks and crannies are home to gift shops; a children's play area; and, if you need to settle an argument, a booth run by the Society for American Baseball Research.

Concession prices are about average for the majors. All the ballpark staples are here, but if you want something different, explore the first-base side of the lower concourse, where items include sushi platters and octopus salad; barbecued chicken and catfish with down-home trimmings like sweet potato pie and peach cobbler; and cappuccino and biscotti. My favorite was a Hungarian pepper stuffed with sausage, served on a Fenway Frank bun, and topped with blue cheese.

Picture of Indians PlayersThe Indians do a great job of tending to the details. There are plenty of concession stands, most of them near a television monitor and within earshot of the play-by-play. Restrooms are clean and plentiful, and they're heated on chilly days. Bright colors, banners with pictures of current players, and mementoes of Tribe history all brighten the ballpark mood.

Although Jacobs Field is only eight years old, it's becoming a victim of baseball's arms race: each new park has to be better--and more expensive--than the ones before it. Still, Richard Jacobs was smart to build a new park when he did. His investment has already paid off handsomely, and he's given a new generation of fans something to look forward to.

Copyright © 2002-06 PAUL RUSCHMANN. All Rights Reserved.
Posted May 2002.